Posts mit dem Label Coast werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Coast werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Freitag, 10. März 2017
Cruising the Coast of Corsica
May 28 – June 6, 2013
On Tuesday morning we farewelled Steve and Trish as they headed off to explore more of Corsica for a few days before returning home to southern France. Then we prepared to get underway again. Our original intention had always been to cruise the dramatic west coast of Corsica but the spring weather was not playing the game. Not only had temperatures not really warmed up yet but the fearsome mistral winds were still blowing strongly down off the French Alps and across the Gulf of Lion all the way to Corsica. The west coast had been hammered with gales for the last few weeks and the forecast was showing no let up.
Rather than sit on our heels hoping for an unlikely break in the weather, we elected to continue up the east coast of the island instead. While this coast offers a number of spectacular anchorages in the very south and a few along Cap Corse at the island’s northern tip, there are not many options in between. As a result we would have to spend more time in marinas on the way up. Luckily, we’d moored beside a British couple, Brian and Linda, in Porto Vecchio who have been sailing this area of the Med on their yacht French Maid, for over 20 years. They were very forthcoming with advice on various places and proved a mine of valuable information.
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| While not as spectacular as the west coast, much of Corsica’s east still provides a pleasant backdrop to a day’s sailing. |
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| Porto Vecchio to Salenzarra. 19.9 Nautical Miles - 3 Hours 33 Minutes – Ave speed 5.6 knots Max 7.0 knots |
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| Salenzarra was an attractive spot to stop under the gaze of the high ranges still dusted in snow. |
We initially planned to stay two nights here just to give us time to have a look around and make use of the Laundromat near the marina. Needing to get two week’s worth of washing done at a time is a pain and proving to be one of the more expensive items in our cruising budget. A trip to the Laundromat can cost up to 50 Euros. ($70 Aus) We can now understand why so many cruisers are now looking to have small washing machines aboard. Although you can only use it in port unless you have an onboard generator, a machine would still quickly pay for itself if you can find somewhere to fit it.
Otherwise however we were quite impressed with Salenzarra and thought it might be a good spot to leave the boat while we hired a car to drive over and spend a couple of days checking out the west coast we were missing. We’d had a great time meandering around in the south of the island in Steve and Trish’s car while we were in Bonifacio and had really enjoyed driving around Menorca as well.
Rob went off to see if he could hire a car in the town and discovered the good news that the local service station was a Hertz agent. Even better news was that they had a tiny Renault hatchback available for the next couple of days. Surely that would be cheap. Then the bad news. The price was 158 Euros per day ($223) After recently paying just 30 Euro per day on Menorca it was a very quick ‘Thanks but no thanks’.
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| The weather finally warmed up enough to break out the bbq |
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| While we had reasonably good weather, we did watch a few awesome thunder storms blow through north of us. |
We were back to the plan of moving on next day - until Marc discovered the electric anchor windlass was not working. Bugger. A quick check of all the obvious suspects didn’t reveal the problem so off he went to the local ship chandlers to find a marine electrician. ‘Sorry too busy today. Should be OK tomorrow.’ Alright. So we wouldn’t be moving on tomorrow after all.
We then sat around most of the Thursday before receiving a phone call from the chandlery mid afternoon. ‘Too busy today too. Maybe Monday’. Rob spat the dummy about unreliable bastards and went and sought some help from Brian of French Maid who was also in Salenzara by now. Fifteen minutes with a multi metre narrowed the likely culprit down to the solenoid relay box but two minutes stripping back some wires from the hand control also revealed some badly corroded copper. Brian offered to take the hand control back to his boat and solder some new cable on overnight which would at least fix that problem. Next morning Rob refitted it all and replaced another suspect section of wire he discovered leading to the relay box and sure enough up and down went the anchor again. All good. Instead of a 100 to 150 Euro for the chandlery’s marine electrician we took Brian and Linda to a waterfront café and shouted the drinks. Much better value and a lot more fun.
Saturday morning we slipped the lines and motored out onto another glassy sea a little before 8.00am and set course for the city of Bastia over 50 nautical miles up the coast. Immediately on leaving the marina we headed well offshore as our pilot guide book warned of a military bombing range adjacent to the French Air Force base located just north of Salenzarra. It was also clearly marked on our electronic charts so we decided we’d rather not become a live target for the French fly boys.
We shouldn’t have bothered as no sooner had we got a couple of miles out to sea than we saw a stream of yachts, including French Maid, begin sailing right through the middle. Oh well at least our seaward position saw us get the first of the wind that did come in complete with a better sailing angle than the short cutters so we actually rounded the point for the run to Bastia a little ahead of them anyway.
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| Alcheringa under sail approaching Bastia. Thanks to Brian on French Maid for getting the shot. |
We had planned to anchor in a small bay on the southern side of Bastia but the south easterly wind was generating a moderate swell which would have seen us rolling badly at anchor. Rather than put up with an uncomfortable stay, we reluctantly headed for Port Toga marina on the northern side of the city on Brian’s recommendation. It was good advice again as we were welcomed warmly by the mariner who helped us berth and then returned to the boat twenty minutes later with a key for the pontoon gate, code for amenities block and the comment ‘Bring boat papers to office later sometime. Non hurry. Pay when leave. Enjoy!’ Now that’s friendly service.
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| Salenzarra to Bastia – 55.8 Nautical Miles – 9 Hours 38 Minutes – Ave Speed 5.8 Knots Max 7.4 knots |
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| The scenery through the interior ranges of Corsica is spectacular |
Bastia actually proved to be a very enjoyable stop. The next day Marc wandered off to explore the old town while we joined Brian and Linda for a train trip up into the mountains. We wound our way through spectacular ranges before finally reaching the town of Corte. Here we hiked up through the steep streets to a restaurant our knowledgeable friends had discovered on a previous trip. The house specialty was Wild Boar. We have to say riding on the coat tails of other people’s trail blazing was working pretty well for us. Like all the little bits of advice Steve and Trish had provided while with us the previous week, Brian and Linda’s experience in this area of the Med was invaluable. The lunch was spectacularly good of course, as was the local Corsican wine. The views of the ranges, valleys and castle from the very top of the town were worth every bit of the high altitude huffing and puffing it took to get up there. Awesome!
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| Lunch of Wild Boar with Brian and Linda of French Maid. Now 77 Brian has been sailing the Med for over 20 summers with Linda since retiring as a British Airways 747 pilot. |
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| The walk to the top of Corte was worth every single step. |
That night we swapped stories of what we’d all seen with Marc and then followed in many of his footsteps next day wandering around the Castillo and old walled town areas of Bastia. At one point we were making our way up a steep, residential laneway when an elderly chap standing by a high gate spied Rob’s camera and very enthusiastically insisted in very patchy English that we follow him inside for ‘magnifique photo’. Dressed all in black Karen though he looked like a Mafia boss. We warily stepped through the gateway and found a courtyard leading to not one, but two, spectacular villas with high elevated views. From our broken conversation we gathered he was the fifth or sixth generation to live in the family property. The view from the courtyard’s terrace not only looked over the Castillo but stretched to the islands of Capraia, Elba and Montecristo made famous by the fictional Count. Our unexpected tour guide assured us that, on a clear day, Italy was visible. When our host learned we were not English but rather Australian he was very impressed saying ‘So far. Another planet’. He was so open and friendly our unexpected experience will remain with us as one of the many highlights of our time on Corsica.
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| We had no idea a walk up this steep lane would lead to such an unexpected encounter. |
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| Karen with our impromptu tour guide on the terrace of his villas |
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| Rob took so many photos of the old town area it was really hard to choose just a few. |
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| Napolean was born on Corsica and is revered but this statue depicting the rotund little megalomaniac as a Roman Emperor may be taking things a little far. |
While we really enjoyed Bastia, by the time we headed back to sea on Tuesday June 4, we were ready for two things, some warm summer weather and a few nights not in a marina. Fortunately we only had to go eight nautical miles up the coast to a delightful bay at Pietracorbara to find both. The sun shone warm and bright and the anchorage was very calm and the water even clearer. While we considered the water still to cool, after putting a toe in, Marc decided the time had come for his first swim of the summer and, after berating us as sooks, struck out for the beach. After a walk along the sand and a short stop for an overpriced beer at waterfront bar he swam back to the boat and admitted the water temperature was still a bit chilly once you broke through the top few inches. Never the less we had a great day reading and lazing around in the sun and fired up the boat’s barbecue for a great dinner and sundowner drinks.
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| At last the weather was starting to match the date and with the first true hints of summer |
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| Once again the Corsican coast was an awesome backdrop |
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| The bay at Pietracorbara was just the sought of anchorage we’d been hanging out for |
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| That’s the bottom, five metres down |
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| The fruits of the BBQ. We do it tough on Alcheringa. |
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| Bastia to Pietracorbara – 8.2 Nautical Miles – I Hour 21 Minutes – Ave Speed 6.0 knots Max 8.1 knots |
In fact, we enjoyed it so much we moved all of 2.2 nautical miles further north into another great bay at Porticcilio and did it all again next day. Without the Marc’s swim part though. In this bay we discovered the most incredible, iridescent coloured jellyfish floating around in their scores. Pinks, purples and even some orange examples drifted past in the crystal clear water. They may have been beautiful but they also had very long tentacles which we imagine may have had an unpleasant effect on human skin.
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| Our neighbours in Porticcilio. Our view was better. |
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| These guys were unbelievable. |
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| All photographed from the deck. No underwater shots at all. |
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| This one had managed to ingest a blade of sea grass somehow which was visible all the way into its body. |
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| Pietracorbara to Porticcilio – 2.2 Nautical Miles - 0 Hours 28 Minutes Ave Speed 4.5 Max 5.3 (Our shortest one day passage yet.) |
Our last stop on Corsica was planned to be the marina at Macinagio on June 6 but when we arrived we discovered an excellent anchorage just outside the harbour entrance and elected to spend the night out there rather than be rubbing shoulders with the neighbours again and have the added expense of mooring fees. Macinagio itself is a nice little town with very attractive cafes and stores along the harbour front. We were able to top up our fresh food supplies and enjoy a nice afternoon ashore. The only thing we weren’t able to achieve was the one reason we came to Macinagio. Our pilot book said there was a customs office here and after not being able to check out of Spain on Menorca, nor able to check into France at Bonifacio, we wanted to clear customs out of France before arriving in Italy. However the marina office informed us there was no longer a customs office in the town. ‘only in Bastia. Go there.’
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| We had a relaxing downwind sail using the genoa only to Macinagio |
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| Porticcilio to Macinagio – 5.8 Nautical Miles – 1 Hour 52 Minutes – Ave Speed 3.1 knots Max 5.9 knots |
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| Macinagio’s waterfront is thick with lovely old buildings. |
It was now obvious that modern Europe doesn’t seem to give a hoot about border controls. We figured what the hell. Let’s just keep going.
MARINA REVIEW: Porto Vecchio - Corsica **1/2
Cost per night for our 43 foot (13.2m) yacht – 44.05 Euro (including VAT, water, power and WiFi. Separate charge for shower tokens)
On arrival we went straight to the fuel dock and topped up our tank. We then had to wait there until 4.00pm for berthing instructions as the marina office was closed for siesta. We were eventually advised by radio to go stern to anywhere available on the first pontoon finger. No mariner assistance was provided.
The marina is very well protected and a huge natural harbour. Shower and toilet could only be described as disgusting. They were so dirty and unhygienic we chose not to use them all. We showered on the boat and made use of the toilet facilities in a nearby café/bar we patronised. We believe they are about to be renovated but we certainly hope they also learn to clean them.
There is no security on the pontoons and we were advised by other cruises that there had been cases of serious theft from a couple of boats including an Australian couple who lost laptops, Ipads, cash, passports and other valuables while ashore having a meal.
Despite being quite a good marina structure wise, Two and a half stars was the most we could give on the value rating due to the state of the facilities and the all round unhelpful nature of the staff.
MARINA REVIEW: Salenzara - Corsica ***1/2
Cost per night for our 43 foot (13.2m) yacht – 45.60 Euro (including VAT, water and power and WiFi. Separate charge for shower tokens)
The entrance to the marina is a little shallow but not a problem with care. There were not a lot of vacant berths and we can imagine boats being turned away in the peak summer season. No doubt the price climbs too.
On arrival we were directed via a radio to a stern to spot on the outer wall between two large motor boats. No mariner assistance was provided. However the reception staff were extremely welcoming and helpful with information about the town.
The showers were operated by a two euro token for ten minutes. The facilities were extremely clean but were locked up at 7.00pm which is a bit early when the sun doesn’t go down until after nine. Laundry, supermarket, chandlers and a range of reasonably expensive restaurants are all nearby. Slightly cheaper food options are available away from the waterfront.
MARINA REVIEW: Porto Toga – Bastia - Corsica ***1/2
Cost per night for our 43 foot (13.2m) yacht – 51.60 Euro (including VAT, water and power. WiFi was not provided but many very close dockside café/bars offered free WiFi. We could actually access one from on deck without the benefit of a mast head WiFi aerial like many cruisers use.
(We had also sort a price from the alternative ‘Vieux Port’ marina on the southern side of Bastia which was 70 Euro per night.)
The entrance to the marina is both narrow and shallow but not a problem in reasonable weather with care. It would get ugly with a north easterly swell running.
On arrival we were met by the mariner in a rib who led us to our alongside berth and provided assistance with mooring He was extremely welcoming and helpful . Most berths are bow or stern to.
The shower facilities were accessed by a code and clean although a little dated. A very large supermarket is located straight over the road from the marina. A large, well stocked chandlery is onsite.
We enjoyed our stay in Port Toga but with marina prices rising as we head east we would expect at least the inclusion of WiFi for our 50 Euros and up before we give more than three and a half stars for value.
For more about our travels and lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail facebook page at Dreamtime Sail on Facebook
If you only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, click the link to go back to our first blog entry. Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway. We hope you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.
Donnerstag, 19. Januar 2017
Sailing down the Italian Coast
June 24 - July 1, 2013
Livorno had been our original landfall on Italy and after using it as a base to visit Tuscany and then returning here to shelter from some nasty weather after our trip north we were finally turning our bow southwards towards what were reputed to be great cruising grounds.
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| There’s usually something to look at as we sail along the Italian coast |
The strong winds were gone and in their place we now had just a gentle breeze leaving us with almost forty miles of motor-sailing along the coast to a marina at Livorno. Irritatingly, the bay just outside the marina was beautifully protected from the prevailing winds and would have been a great place to anchor off, BUT, funnily enough the area was declared a marine protection zone soon after the marina was built and anchoring is now illegal. With no shelter from the prevailing north westerly winds anywhere else along this section we guess it was fortuitous rezoning for the marina who were now collecting 50 Euro a day from us for our berth.
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Livorno to Salivoli – 39.6 Nautical Miles – 6 Hours 30 Minutes Average Speed 6.1 Knots – Max Speed 7.2 knots |
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| Time to relax after a day working on the boat. |
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| The Piombino waterfront is quite attractive. |
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| No beach, no problem for the local kids in Piombino |
The two of us spent the following day in very indulgent fashion doing very little at all. We took our books and headed over the headland to a delightful little bay with a small rocky beach backed by a nice café. Italian style, we hired a sun bed and umbrella each and apart from a break for lunch and a bottle of vino, we spent the entire day reading and watching the world go by.
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| The little beach we spent the day at. Offshore to the left is Elba while in the distance you can see Corsica. |
Marc was up very early and headed for the station as the sun came up for his trip down to Rome. He and Caroline spending a couple of nights in the city before coming back to the boat so rather than waste money and risk an overdose of boredom sitting in the marina, we headed across to a bay on the nearby island of Elba. We had a great sail but this particular patch of water has more large ferry traffic than anywhere we’ve been so far. Our AIS was constantly sounding its alarm as ferry after ferry left or entered the port at Piona with no ferry free interval longer than fifteen minutes. Forget power giving way to sail. These guys do not deviate a meter off course and certainly do not reduce speed for anyone. Best practice is just to stay the hell out of their way. Our destination of Golfo di Stella is a huge gulf on the southern coast of the island well protected from the 15 to 20 knot north westerlies blowing down off the mountains.
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| On the way to Isola di Elba |
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| We were constantly dodging big ferries off Piombino |
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| Salivoli to Gulfo Stella, Elba – 20.6 Nautical Miles – 3 Hours 59 Minutes Average Speed 5.2 Knots – Max Speed 7.8 knots |
We spent the first night in a recommended anchorage Anse di Margidore in the north west corner of the gulf but moved around the point early the next morning to a very picturesque small bay with a beach bordered on all sides by high cliffs. Despite its only access being via a rather precarious path down the cliff face, it was fairly popular with the local sun lovers. The water was beautifully clear and provided great snorkelling. Much nicer than sitting in the marina.
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| One of the many hill top towns on Elba |
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| Our fantastic anchorage with great, clear water. |
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| The famous island of Montechristo in the distance. Wonder where the Count is? |
The following morning we upped anchor for our return trip to Salivoli. Our day started with absolutely no wind and glassy seas but shortly after rounding Punta dei Ripalti on Elba’s south east corner a mild breeze began to appear. We hoisted the asymmetric and enjoyed a very leisurely downwind sail back across the bay, other than stressing about the scores of ferries doing their best to run us down and spoil our day.
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| Mountainous interior of Elba |
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| Old abandoned mine buildings. Iron ore was mined here since the early days of Rome. |
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| Motoring over glassy seas |
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| We spotted Kokomo, a little 70+ metre sloop motoring by. |
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| Some wind at last and a nice downwind sail with the asymmetric spinnaker. |
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| Gulfo Stella, Elba to Salivoli– 20.3 Nautical Miles – 4 Hours 59 Minutes Average Speed 4.1 Knots – Max Speed 5.9 knots |
We moored back in the now 75 Euro an night marina as the rate goes up 50% in July and August for peak season where Marc and Caroline joined us in the early evening after their train adventure from Rome. Next morning would be occupied by a trip to the supermarket to stock the boat up well with provisions for the next week or so then it would be back to Elba to explore the island properly.
MARINA REVIEW: Marina Salivoli -Italy ***
Note: The price went up to 75 Euro for July-August for high season in mid-summer)
Salivoli is a reasonably new marina and offers good protection from most weather. It is well filled with local boats but has a small number of guest berths. Fuel dock on site, small but well stocked and very helpful chandlery is located in the marina. Even camping gaz was available. A café and bar is also onsite with more cafes adjacent to the marina at the beach. Bathroom facilities modern and clean. Shower is operated by tokens available from vending machine for 1 Euro. A real bonus was free ice from an ice machine located under the control tower near the marina entrance. (G&Ts for sundowners.) A large COOP supermarket is about two kilometres from the marina.
We found NO WiFi available in the vicinity of the marina at all. For the price we would expect marina provided WiFi but not even the café’s had it.
For more about our travels and lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail facebook page at Dreamtimesail on Facebook
If you only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, click the link to go back to our first blog entry.Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway! We hope you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.
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