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Samstag, 11. März 2017
Port Douglas – at the Reef Marina where sitting in the mud is considered normal
24-26 September 2016
Marinas are not our favourite places. We’d always rather be anchored up somewhere ‘On the hook’ rather than paying at times exorbitant amounts of money for the dubious privilege of having neighbours two metres away. However marinas can be convenient providing opportunities to refuel and take on fresh water easily, get your washing done as well as reprovision without having to a transport everything back and forwards via dinghy. They are also normally a secure place to leave your boat unattended when need be so we consider marinas to fall in the 'sometimes necessary evil' category.
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| It's easy to see why tourists would be attracted to Port Douglas' natural charms. |
After a great stay at Low Isles with Karen’s brother Russell and his wife Tania on board, we needed to drop them back to their car at Port Douglas. As we were also keen to have a look around the town and pick up some fresh fruit and vegies at the Sunday markets, we planned to spend Saturday and Sunday nights in port. There is anchorage space past the marinas in the river but it was quite crowded when we had looked a few day previously so we decided to bite the bullet and booked a berth in the Reef Marina for the two nights.
| As can be seen in this Google Earth image, the anchorage up river at Port Douglas can get crowded. |
We had made the most of our time on the water with our guests so didn’t arrive at the marina until late afternoon. We came in on a making tide about two hours before the high. We found our allocated berth without a problem, secured the boat then collected our swipe passes from a small wall safe next to the marina office door. The office is only staffed from 08:30 am to 05:00 pm on weekdays and 08:30 to 12:30pm on Saturdays and any arrival outside those hours has to be prearranged and prepaid.
| The location of our berth in Reef Marina, Port Douglas. |
| Karen with Our Dreamtime in the marina at Port Douglas |
After seeing off Russell and Tania we made the most of the marina facilities and enjoyed looong, hot showers before a nice BBQ dinner on board and relatively early night after our big day snorkelling the reefs of Low Isles.
We arose Sunday morning keen to explore this tropical tourist mecca. Port Douglas has an interesting history of boom, bust and boom again. The township was established in 1877 after the discovery of gold at Hodgkinson River. The Post Office opened on 1 September 1877 with the town growing quickly. At its peak Port Douglas had a population of 12,000 and boated 27 hotels. With the construction of the Mulligan Highway it serviced inland towns as far away as Herberton.
When the railway from Cairns to Kuranda was completed in 1891, the importance of Port Douglas dwindled along with its population. A cyclone in 1911 demolished all but two buildings in the town and had a significant impact. At its lowest ebb in 1960 the town, Port Douglas was little more than a fishing village with a population of 100.
In the late-1980s notorious investor Christopher Skase financed the construction of the Sheraton Mirage Resort. Skase later fled Australia broke and in disgrace with creditors left chasing hundreds of millions of dollars but the Mirage Resort lived on providing the base for a fast growing tourism boom sustained to this day.
In November 1996 United States President Bill Clinton and First Lady Hillary Clinton chose the town as their only holiday stop on their historic visit to Australia. When dining at a local restaurant they witnessed a couple's wedding certificate. Bill obviously liked the place as he came back as a private citizen for another holiday after his Presidency was over. During that return visit on 11 September 2001, the ex-President was again dining at the Salsa Bar and Grill, a local restaurant, when he was advised of the 11 September attacks. He returned to the United States the following day.
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| Port Douglas' most famous holiday makers. (Image from web) |
Our first stop was the markets in search of fresh fruit and vegetables straight from the farm. Produce sourced this way always lasts much longer on the boat than that found in supermarkets. It has not spent days or weeks in cold storage before being displayed in chilled cabinets.
| We always prefer to buy produce from farmers markets when possible. Port Douglas had a good range to choose from. |
Although the vast majority of goods on offer at the very large weekly markets was clothing and souvenirs targeted at the tourist hordes, we were very pleased with the range of locally grown, very fresh tropical fruits and other produce available. We were able to fill our carry bags with enough to last for quite a while on our coming journey back south along the coast. It was only a couple of blocks back to the marina so we got it all back to the boat and stowed away before heading off for some more exploration.
| The Sunday Markets in Port Douglas are very popular with the tourists. |
| There's no shortage of alternative lifestylers up this way. |
A stroll down the main street revealed a busy retail and café/restaurant precinct with a mix of new concrete and glass structures interspersed amongst more than enough early 20th Century timber buildings for the town to have retained its typically North Queensland character. One thing we don’t need is any more ‘Stuff’ on the boat so we were strictly window shoppers. Karen certainly enjoyed wandering in and out of the various boutiques and souvenir shops though and the knowledge that his wallet was unlikely to be opened made the exercise much less stressful for Rob.
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| Port Douglas' St Mary's by the sea is certainly one of the more picturesque churches we've seen. |
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| The view through the window behind the altar is spectacular. |
We then had a very nice, well priced lunch at ‘The Combined Club’ located with a large deck built out over the water. It was a very pleasant spot to enjoy a few cold drinks and bite to eat while watching the boats come and go.
This may sound ludicrous but we followed lunch by enjoying a very relaxing afternoon back in the marina doing our laundry. You see the marinas amenities, including the washers and driers, are located in the same building as Hemingway's Boutique Brewery that overlooked our finger. Here’s how it worked. Sort the clothes, stick them into the washing machines, throw in a few gold coins (too many gold coins actually) and hit go. Head for the bar for 24 minutes. Back to the laundry to switch everything into the driers, stick in a fistful of gold coins again and then back to the bar for ninety minutes. Back to the laundry. Driers are crap and clothes still damp. More gold coins and back to the bar for another 90 minutes. They even had live music playing. Excellent. An hour and half later and it’s back to the laundry. Damn! The clothes are dry. Fold them up and into the laundry bag and ‘Oh Look. It’s time to go back to the boat and watch the footy semi-final on TV.’ Life is good!
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| Not a bad place to do our laundry. |
We planned on making the short hop back over to Low Isles mid morning for another afternoon of snorkelling before moving on to Batt Reef the following day. There was no rush so we had a little sleep in and a leisurely breakfast before beginning to get the boat ready to leave mid morning. Weren’t we surprised when we looked at the depth gauge and discovered it read 1.1 metres. This presented a problem seeing as we draw 1.5 metres. A quick look over the side revealed we could see very clearly the mud bottom that our keel and rudder were buried almost half a metre into. We’d had been off the boat during low tide the previous day and hadn’t realised just how ridiculously shallow the berths in Reef Marina are. Now we weren’t going anywhere until the tide came in.
| No good can come of this when we need a minimum of 1.5 metres to float. |
| At low tide the water on our marina finger was only a metre deep. Circled is a propeller we spotted laying in the mud on the bottom. We expect the presence of crocodiles has dissuaded anyone from jumping in to get it. |
Depending on the marina, you are normally supposed to check out by 11.00am so Rob headed for the office to find out what the story is. Sorry about that said the woman on reception and told him they recently had the marina dredged but not into the berths so once we backed out there would be more depth between the fingers. Yeah right. There wasn’t much chance of backing out when even our prop was sitting in the mud. We guess expecting to have a berth with enough water to float in for $64 a night for our 42 footer was expecting too much.
It was three o’clock before we eased away from our berth with just 10 centimetres (4 inches) of water under the keel until we got out into the dredged area. The nice T-Bone lunch we had at the pub while we were waiting for the tide to come in was at least some compensation for the snorkelling time lost at Low Isles.
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If you have only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, or work through our previous adventures, click the link to go back to our first blog entry. Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway.
Mittwoch, 18. Januar 2017
Bundaberg to Pancake Creek – A favourite Anchorage
16 -20 May 2016
The sun was yet to appear over the eastern horizon as we slipped the lines and reversed Our Dreamtime out of her berth at Port of Bundaberg Marina. The strong winds of the past two weeks had abated overnight but we knew there was still a fair sized swell waiting for us outside. With this in mind we made our way into the centre of the channel before turning into the slight breeze to raise our mainsail in the calm of the river.
| Mainsail is up and we're heading for the river mouth in the pre-dawn light |
We thought we were up early, but stretching ahead of us was a conga line of eight yachts and catamarans making their way out through the leads to resume journeys that had been temporarily halted by the extended heavy weather of recent days. We joined the procession climbing up and over the swells running straight up the channel. Every boat turned to port after clearing the shallows and joined the migration North.
A southerly was predicted to fluctuate in the 12 to 18 knot range and swing more towards the east through the day but at this hour it was yet to gain strength. We motored for about the first hour of our 65 nautical mile passage thankful there was enough breeze in the sails to steady the boat to a degree as the swells rolled under us. Our destination was Pancake Creek, a very secure anchorage located on the coast between the Town of 1770 and Gladstone. It’s a beautiful, unspoiled piece of Australia that can only be reached by boat. We’d stayed there on two previous occasions and were very much looking forward to returning.
As the breeze strengthened to around 10-15 knots we silenced the engine and found we were able to make five and a half knots with main and genoa. We’d normally be quite happy with that sort of cruising speed but with the short winter days we would need to go faster or face navigating the narrow and very shallow entrance to Pancake Creek in the dark.
We hadn’t raised the mizzen as we have found in a strongish following wind and good swell it tends to generate weather helm and can overpower the autopilot, however with no sign of the breeze strengthening at this point, up she went and we picked up another half knot or so.
We then found the autopilot starting to struggle to maintain course from time to time when we got pushed around by a larger than average swell. This puzzled us a little as it’s never been a problem in these conditions before. We really couldn’t afford to slow back down and, in reality, needed to go a bit faster still to reach the anchorage in daylight. So with the wind strength appearing to have stabilised we elected to bring out our asymmetric spinnaker with a view to killing two birds with one stone by speeding the boat up while also counter-balancing the power of the mizzen a bit better.
| The camera always flattens the sea but conditions were reasonably lumpy. |
We do love our coloured sail. The instant it blossomed our boat speed picked up straight into the 7-8 knot range and faster when surfing the swells. Happy days, until the autopilot alarm sounded as it was again unable to maintain course. Continuing on with Rob hand steering, we began to go through a trouble shooting process. With the current conditions and sail plan the autopilot simply should not have been having problems so something else must be wrong.
First up we tried a good old fashioned reboot and turned the whole B&G integrated plotter, autopilot and gauges off for ten seconds then back on. That’s when we noticed there was no rudder angle showing on the autopilot gauge. That would explain the autopilot’s lack of performance but why wasn’t the rudder angle working? We surmised something must have been upset when the rudder stock stuffing box was repacked in the boatyard. Despite a very painful wrist she’d injured the day before, Karen took over the helm while Rob went below to investigate. The rudder quadrant is located in our stern cabin so off came all the linen from the nicely made bunk. The heavy, innerspring mattress was wrestled into the narrow companionway leading forward and Rob was soon head down, bum up, rocking and rolling around in the lumpy conditions with a head torch. Our first suspicion was that the linkage between the rudder angle sender unit and rudder arm may not have been reconnected after the stuffing box was repacked but there it was, clipped in place. He then went looking for any wiring that may have been left unconnected or some other obvious cause. When nothing glaring could be found quickly and with Karen in obvious pain helming , deeper investigation would have to wait for the calm of the anchorage.
And so began a long seven hours of very physical hand steering for Rob. The good news was that the wind was fairly slow to swing to the east so we didn’t have to steer too far port from the rum line to maintain a sail-able wind angle and good speed. We closed the coast a little of short of Round Hill Head at 1770 before the breeze became too close to the stern to continue to fly the asymmetric spinnaker so Karen resumed the helm briefly while Rob doused and stowed it.
With the wind now directly astern and no spinnaker we weren’t able to maintain the speed we wanted to ensure a daylight arrival so we decided to add the engine back into the mix for the last couple of hours. We also tried something new and motor sailed dead downwind with the main all the way out to starboard and the mizzen to port but no headsail. It worked a treat and stabilised the boat quite well in the big swell pushing us along consistently over seven knots at low engine revs.
After clearing Bustard Head and Clews Point we turned to wind, furled away the main and dropped the mizzen before the run into Pancake Creek. We brought up our previous GPS track from our entry last November and lined up on it for the first port marker which is located well to the western side of the wide creek mouth.
Ahead of us, we were surprised to see a catamaran heading straight up the middle with a yacht following. The making tide was about halfway between the low and high so we thought the cat may find just enough water to get over the sandbanks guarding the entrance but were quite sure the keel boat would not. Watching us maintain our course well to the west probably combined with fast shallowing readings from his depth gauge soon generated some indecision in the mind of the skipper of the yacht who slowed dramatically before reversing, coming about and working his way over to follow our line.
The catamaran did make it over the first sandbank then continued straight across the channel and onto the huge expanse of sand that totally dries at low tide. We’re sure he touched bottom before backing up and looking lost. We were a bit busy winding our way in ourselves but were about to hail him on the radio when one of the boats already at anchor came on and suggested he head back towards the entrance, find the leads and come in the channel. Oops!
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| Port of Bundaberg to Pancake Creek - 65.9 Nautical Miles - 10 Hours 10 Minutes Average Speed 6.5 knots - Max Speed 10.7 Knots |
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| Anchored amongst the sand banks in Pancake Creek |
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| Other than at low tide, all these sandbanks disappear making the entry a little interesting. |
An exhausted Rob was very relieved to step away from the helm after we anchored close to where we had dropped on both our previous stays. Ten minutes later the boat was all secured with halyards off, sail covers on and bubbles popped ready to enjoy the fast approaching sunset.
| A suitable conclusion to a day under sail |
| You have to love a meal that cooks itself. This was so tender and juicy it melted in our mouths. |
| A motor cat arriving in Pancake Creek as the sun dips. |
Unusually for we night owls, we were both fast asleep by eight o’clock.
| The best thing about Silverside for dinner is the leftovers turned into corn beef fritters for breakfast the next morning. |
Sitting at anchor the following day Rob again worked through all the connections between the rudder angle sender unit at the rest of the B&G system and again found nothing glaringly amiss. We like to be self contained as much as possible to try to fix problems but it was now time to call the cavalry to the rescue.
Our electronics upgrade was done in early 2015 by Jake Rudge of Seapro Technologies. We discovered the company at the Sanctuary Cove Boat Show and were very impressed at how much time Jake spent with us asking all the right questions to work out exactly what we wanted to achieve and working out the best, most economic options for us. The quote he provided was the most competitive by a long, long way and we quickly agreed to the deal and paid the deposit. A new B&G autopilot, chart plotter, AIS, depth/log sender and gauge were all fitted on time and on budget and Jake again spent considerable time with us on a sea trial calibrating everything and explaining all the systems features. Now we were even more impressed. It all worked beautifully unlike a lot of expensive work we’d previously had done by an East Coast Marina based marine electrician.
We called Jake to see if he could provide some trouble shooting guidance. Despite the fact we hadn’t spoke to him in over twelve months, Jake quickly recalled the boat and its systems. When we explained our problem and that it occurred immediately after the rudder stock stuffing box had been repacked he immediately suspected the culprit but first he talked us through some basic checks at the autopilot computer to make sure the system itself was operational. He asked if the linkage rudder angle linkage was on. ‘Yep, first thing we checked,’ was the quick reply. Then he asked, ‘Is it on 180 degrees out?
That was when the light bulb illuminated with the blinding flash of the obvious. A quick check revealed that the sender unit had indeed been spun 180 degrees out in the boat yard before the linkage was reattached. It took all of five seconds to rectify that and the rudder angle miraculously reappeared on the gauge. All fixed. THANK YOU JAKE! It was a huge relief to know we wouldn’t be hand steering all the way to the Whitsundays before heading offshore.
| The arm on the rudder angle indicator should be facing forward, the same as the rudder arm. |
Jake then spent another ten minutes or so on the phone to us asking about how everything else on the boat was going and talking about our cruising plans. He revealed he checks in on our blog from time to time to see what we're up to. If you are in South East Queensland and need absolutely anything in the marine electronics realm, make sure you talk to Seapro Technologies. We could not recommend them highly enough.

Now we could relax and enjoy a few days kicking back in Pancake Creek before continuing North and that's exactly what we did.
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| This was the line up of boats that anchored outside the mouth behind Point Clews ready to for an early Friday morning departure before the weekend's bad weather arrived. We preferred to sit in the security of the anchorage and let it blow over. |
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| Karen went ashore and had the watercolours out while Rob got on with some blogging. |
| The BBQ got a workout as always. This time it was salmon fillets and salad. |
| Then it was steak and BBQ roasted vegetables. |
| As predicted, Sunday was not nice with heavy rain and winds gusting to near 40 knots at times |
| We had put extra anchor chain out in preparation for the wind but when it came from the West we were blown very close to the sandbanks for a while when it all stretched out. |
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| After a stormy Sunday, Monday at Pancake Creek was beautiful but with the wind blowing from exactly the direction we needed to go we sat it out for another day. |
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| This guy jumped into one of our crab pots |
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| So Karen got to work and came up with this |
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| Fresh mud crab sushi for lunch - yum oh! Yes we do eat well on Our Dreamtime, |
| Good night from Pancake Creek. |
If you would like to find out more about Pancake Creek check out our blog from our first visit to this great anchorage at Exploring Pancake Creek and the Bustard Head Lighthouse.
We love to receive comments on our blog from readers. If you do leave a comment and you also have a blog, please leave a link as well. We'd like to click over for a visit and leave you a comment too.
To stay right up to date with what we’re up to and see lots more photos check out and 'like' our Dreamtime Sail Facebook page at DreamtimeSail

If you have only recently discovered our blog and would like to read how it all started, or work through our previous adventures, click the link to go back to our first blog entry. Stuff it. Let's just go sailing anyway.
We hope you enjoy reading the previous posts to catch up on our story.
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