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Posts mit dem Label Battery werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Battery werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Freitag, 10. Februar 2017

Chilling while inverting battery powered air conditioning


Once upon a time I was doing on and off electronics work for a small dealership. Along comes a new boater with a check, and he buys a little 26" foot cruiser, but the sale is conditional. The conditional part of this purchase is he has to have air conditioning installed on the boat for his wife to use while on the hook. "No way" I say, "You can't get a genset into this little craft, you can barely get into the engine room in the first place. The customer comes back and says there must be a way. My response is, "Well I can get the air conditioner to fit in the boat, and maybe it could be powered by a portable Honda genset that could ride on the swim platform." His response is "He will check with his wife."

The next day he comes back and says his wife didn't want the portable Honda genset on the boat becuse it would be ugly, and hands me a piece of paper filled with scribbled numbers, and says an inverter could be used. I look at the numbers. "It's theoretically possible", I say, "but the battery bank will be huge, and the weight increase on the boat will be notable." The salesman literally begs me, and against my better judgement, I reluctantly I build it.
















The only place the batteries would fit was on the starboard side where the three gallon hot water heater was, so out it went, and the batteries went in. Using four ought wire, I assembled the system, installed the air conditioner along with a large inverter, and it worked for the 6  hours I had promised in between charges. "What happened to the hot water heater? My wife must have hot water", he says. My response was "Where else could you put all of the batteries? Even the rats are hunched backed in this little boat. And there is no such thing as cold water on a boat in Florida. Do you see how large all the batteries are? Where did you think they could go?" I didn't listen closely enough to my inner voice that kept telling me this is a stupid thing to do, whether it was technically feasible or not. I swore I would never do an inverter based air conditioning system ever again.  I changed my mind this week about all of this.












I just finished installing a lot of gear on a very shiny, and brand new Boston Whaler 32" Outrage Cuddy Cabin (the installer liked this boat). Much to my surprise the vessel had a factory installed Dometic (Marineair) 12V cuddy air conditioning kit. These 3500 BTU units are specifically designed to run in an inverter, and 12VDC battery environment. The system is turn key, includes the inverter, and should be able to be installed by a modestly skilled boater. 

















The kit normally comes with an inverter, but Boston Whaler has opted to use the sturdy ProMariner True Power Combi QS 2500w inverter/charger in its place (the Dometic supplied inverter does not charge). In my opinion Boston Whaler made several good design decisions in configuring this system. The air conditioning inverter, and battery system is isolated from the ship's house, and starting battery system. This insures that the air conditioning system can't inadvertently pull down the starting batteries in particular. The other good decision was have the AC system battery bank chargeable only by shore power. Although it would be technically possible to recharge the air conditioning battery bank via the Verado alternators, it would add an additional level of complexity, and impracticality to the system. Simple on a boat always works best. The True Power Combi QS inverter will shut the system down when the battery bank reaches 10vdc also insuring the battery bank can't be discharged (warning at 10.5vdc) down to damaging levels.

















At 3500 BTU, this compact system won't cool down your entire Magnifico 50' yacht, but for smaller vessels, it is an attractive alternative for cooling without a genset set. The power draw is 29vdc amps, so eight hours of cooling will cost you about 240 (usable) amps, and you won't be bothering your neighbors in that quiet anchorage with a droning generator all night. So over all a good gig. The system comes turnkey, and looks like it's easy to install, at least as easy as anything on a boat ever is. There are other air conditioning system options available in the market place, including direct 12vdc systems. Do your homework well, double check the power requirements, and don't wire it with lamp cord.

Many thanks to Ian Goodnow from ProMariner, and Boston Whaler's tech support department for letting me bug them with questions, and the good answers I got.

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Montag, 2. Januar 2017

Remote Battery Wiring


A separate battery to run a winch or bow thruster is cheaper, safer and works better than running a heavy cable from your starting or house bank.

This installation requires some electrical skills and since errors could cause an electrical fire you should not attempt it unless you feel confident. This project has not been checked for compliance with ABYC or USCG standards and the author presents this as a guideline to be interpreted by qualified installers. No warranty or guarantee is given or implied.




THE THEORY BEHIND THIS PROJECT


Winches and bow thrusters, located in the bow, are usually a long distance from the starting or house batteries. These items draw a heavy current for a short period of time. Unless you use very heavy cable for the long run, the voltage drop by the time it gets to the device, will have reduced the available power.
What is worse, however, is that very heavy copper cable is an invitation for an on-board fire if it gets shorted so for safety you have to add a large fuse - large enough to take the stalled motor load of the winch without giving you a nuisance blow - yet small enough that a short at the far end can draw enough current through that long cable to blow the fuse.
In many installations, these requirements conflict making practical current protection impossible.
The current drawn by the stalled motor is often so close to the current drawn by a short at the remote end that any fuse or circuit breaker that can protect against the short, will give nuisance blows just when you really need it.



PROVIDING A REMOTE BATTERY IS SAFER, CHEAPER AND WORKS BETTER

Instead of installing a very expensive heavy gauge copper line up AND BACK, and the expensive fuse to protect it, install a battery in the forepeak to provide local power. Now, the heavy wire is very short with very little voltage drop, and you can keep the battery charged with an economical charging line. Depending on the size of the device to be powered you can usually get by with a low cost automotive starting battery. These are made to take heavy loads for short periods of time and remain on float charge the rest of the running time. Since the charging line is low current, it is easy to provide fuse or circuit breaker protection. By installing a 50 amp combiner in series with the charging line, the remote battery will be maintained at full charge without any diode drop yet it will not discharge back into the house or starting battery.
NOTE:- Since there is a battery at each end of the charging line you need a fuse or circuit breaker at EACH end.

INSTALLATION

Parts List:-
  • Automotive battery with enough capacity to run the device for the longest job. (Multiply AVERAGE current by time in hours to get amp-hours required, then double this figure. Example, 80 amps x 30/60 hours x 2 = 80AH ) For charging compatibility it should be the same type (lead-acid or gel) as the starting battery.
  • 50 amp combiner The combiner should be mounted with the remote battery.
  • Two fuses or circuit breakers. I prefer the automatic reset thermal breakers that are typical in the automotive industry. 
  • A good quality battery box. 
  • Red and Black cables for the charging line - 10 gauge is adequate.
  • Conduit to protect charging line - essential on a metal boat, desirable on others.
Select a location for the forward battery. It should be ventillated because the battery will be on charge much of the time and producing small amounts of hydrogen that could be explosive if allowed to concentrate. Larger installations might consider an automatic power vent that only runs when dangerous gasses are being produced. A gel type battery is much less of an explosive gas problem but it is still present if overcharged.
Provide a SOLID mounting for the battery and battery box. Keep in mind that the bow takes much more of a pounding than the traditional battery locations so go overboard (not literally) on strengthening the mounting. The battery (box) must be rock solid when strapped down. Due to the motion and stresses, I would not use the conventional webbing strap they supply as the buckles provided are usually poor. Good quality ratcheting strap(s) of a material that is acid proof would be better, or provide a stainless retainer with through bolts and wing nuts.
Remote.GIF - 5464 Bytes Connect the device to the battery following manufacturer's suggestions. Connect the charging line, following this schematic and the installation instructions supplied with the combiner. If you use our thermal circuit breakers, you must use crimp on ring terminals to connect the wire - the screws are too small to adequately secure 10 gauge stranded wire, even if tinned.
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Samstag, 31. Dezember 2016

Battery Replacement in Older 406 EPIRBs


What do you do with an older 406 EPIRB who's battery needs replacing? For some, it is a simple issue of getting the battery replaced; but for others (when the unit is older than 10yrs), the EPIRB is no longer serviceable and agents will no longer service them. They say that once an EPIRB is over 10 years old, the unit is obsolete. This exert was taken from a Practical Sailor article and is reproduced below.
"Upon completion of the successful testing I was informed that after the battery theoretically expires in July of 2011, they will not be able to install a new battery as ACR will not permit this, the contention being that the EPIRB has lived out it’s useful life as a piece of electronic gear and therefore can no longer be placed in service any longer. If I wish to continue having an EPIRB aboard my vessel, I will need to purchase a new unit!"
I can't understand why the electronics date. If it still tests OK and is working, why are we making these units obsolete?  It's so these rip off dealers can sell us more EPIRB"s. That's why! :-D
Replacing batteries in these units is not for you average handy man for the most part. In fact, even if you were to replace the batteries (assuming you get the right ones), you still miss out on the service center, complete test of the unit. Often to the same standard that new one's are tested to as they run the assembly line.  Having said that, it is possible to replace the batteries yourself, provided you get the correct one's. Remember, your life may one day depend on this device. Get this wrong and well........ Please, if you are not up to this, send your unit in for the service or buy a new one.
We are discovering, 1. Our EPIRB's (2 of them on "Solace"{406's}) will no longer be able to have their battery replaced due to there age. and 2. The cost of new ones has reduced significantly so that it can often be cheaper to buy a new one. So for us, we will buy new one's and leave the old one's on board as "back up" .
So, below is an description of how to change the batteries on an McMurdo E3 EPIRB. The limiting factor to start with may be your ability to source the battery kit from a McMurdo dealer. Usually, if supplied, it is done with all responsibility resting with  purchaser. Good luck!!
AND a uTube on the change of batteries on another type of 406 EPIRB with hydrostatic release.
Does anyone else have a project they can direct me to, on changing batteries on a EPIRB? What about dealers who will sell the battery kits for EPIRB's? Please send any details you have to the email in the header, or leave a comment below this post. TIA

 Changing McMurdo E3 EPIRB Battery

Recently, I have to change an expired McMurdo E3 EPIRB battery. I never changed an EPIRB battery before but after understanding its internal structure, I am confident enough to try for the first time.

The replacement kit comes with a battery unit, a gasket, a silica gel package, new battery expiry date sticker and 8 pieces of new screws.

This is how the new gasket looks like. It is used to replace the existing gasket on the top/antenna housing

The screws comes with o-ring to ensure watertight integrity to the EPIRB unit

First of all, remove all the holding down screws around the housing useng a flat face screwdriver. Total of 6 screws if not mistaken.

There are 2 screws hidden behind the lanyard. Pull the lanyard holder to reveal the screws ports (2)

After removing all the screws, gently pull up the top/antenna housing to disengage it from the lower part of the unit. The printed circuit board can be seen after the top housing been removed.
The printed circuit board is been secured with 3 screws

Use the Philips screwdriver to remove the centre screw. Extra precaution not to lose the washer below the screw














Then remove the spacers by either removing screws from the bottom of the spacers or loosen the spacers with finger. There are washers below the spacers and should be careful so not to lose the washers

Slightly lift up the circuit board gently. The battery unit can be seen at the bottom of the printed circuit board.

Try to locate this 2 connections attached to the printed circuit board. One of the connection is to the battery unit and the other one is to the unit test button. Gently disengage the connectors from the printed circuit board.

Note there is an old silica gel package (white package) at the bottom of the printed circuit board.

Remove the previous silica gel and replace it with the new one which comes with the replacement kit. Use the double sided adhesive tape to ensure the new silica gel glued to the area. The purpose of the silica gel is to keep the internal area dry from moisture

With the printed circuit board removed, the battery unit is visible underneath it

Use a narrow head pliers to loosen the bolt that is securing the battery unit. There is a washer below the nut and be careful not to lose it.

After the nut is removed, the battery will slide out easily. There is a tiny shaft in the middle that secure the battery unit.

Change the gasket for the top/antenna housing

Reassembled it in the reverse order. Once it is reassembled, push and hold the test button for 10 seconds to ensure the EPIRB unit is in working condition and able to transmit.

Lastly, put on the new battery expiry date sticker on the EPIRB unit. The battery has a lifespan of 5 years.

Also the EPIRB casing should be updated with the new battery expiry date sticker.




















Practical sailor blurb
We received the letter below yesterday from Practical Sailor reader Arnold Rowe. He was kind enough to let us share it (with some minor edits of his well-expressed and understandable ire), with the hopes of raising awareness of the limited service life of 406 EPIRBs. Having had a similar experience years ago with the torpedo-sized RLB23 (which set me back more than a $1,000 in the ’90s) I can sympathize. The now obsolete RLB23 is officially consigned to Practical Sailor’s Gear Graveyard, and I expect a series of other newly obsolete EPIRBs to join it.

As we move forward with Ralph Naranjo’s report on Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) in the April issue of Practical Sailor magazine, we’ll also look at effective service life. Battery life has become an even more critical issue these days as ACR—and I assume other makers will follow suit—add non-emergency functions to their PLBs, like the AquaLink View PLB . According to ACR Electronics , the new unit is designed with fixed limits for non-distress messaging and tests, so that using the non-distress features will not tap into the required reserve battery life for distress alerting. We look forward to testing this product and hearing readers’ take on the messaging feature, as it raises some important questions regarding the purpose of emergency signaling devices.
By the way, some safety equipment dealers are offering trade-ins on old ACR EPIRBs, which should help ease the financial pain of replacement. According to Mr. Rowe, Avalon Rafts is one of them.
Finally, I’ll emphasize here again that it is very important that owners of EPIRBs routinely drop in at the NOAA beacon registration website to make sure all their data is correct and up to date:

Dear Practical Sailor,
I own an ACR Satellite 406 EPIRB, Product No. 2758, Category II/Class 2.  This unit is manually deployable. A date stamped on the side of the unit reads Sept 15, 1997. A sticker on the same side reads Serial No 5990, Date: 9605.
On April 13, 2006, I had the battery in this EPIRB replaced at my local ACR service center at a cost of $222.38. A statement on the back of the EPIRB reads “Battery must be replaced after emergency use or by: 07/2011.”
Yesterday I happened to be in my local ACR service center and they kindly checked out my EPIRB using their computer based system.  It immediately passed all tests with flying colors.
Upon completion of the successful testing I was informed that after the battery theoretically expires in July of 2011, they will not be able to install a new battery as ACR will not permit this, the contention being that the EPIRB has lived out it’s useful life as a piece of electronic gear and therefore can no longer be placed in service any longer. If I wish to continue having an EPIRB aboard my vessel, I will need to purchase a new unit!
My EPIRB is in absolute pristine condition.  I am perfectly pleased with my existing EPIRB and wish to keep it for many years to come.  Purchasing an EPIRB was not a trivial initial investment and I find it irritating that I am forced to chuck a perfectly adequate piece of gear at the manufacture’s whim.
Arnold Rowe
Riverside
, Calif.


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